Rafa wasn’t always known as Rafa.  The day that he was carelessly dropped off at ACCT like a piece of unwanted trash, he was known as Benji.  ACCT is Philadelphia’s only intake facility for all strays and owner surrenders.  Due to very limited space, ACCT is still a high kill facility, euthanizing many dogs and cats every year when they run out of room.  Unfortunately, Philadelphia is not yet a no-kill city.  The day Benji was brought in, I was in the waiting room to pick up  a litter of foster kittens from neuter surgery.  I looked at Benji, noticing that he seemed to be a purebred Wheaten Terrier.  He was very dirty but otherwise looked to be in good condition.  It occurred to me that my client Sherry, who adopted her Wheaten from a Wheaten rescue, may be able to help me with this dog.  To be honest, this dog’s life probably was not in imminent danger.  He most likely would have been pulled by a rescue.  However, the shelter is always full, predominantly of Pit Bulls.  As soon as he went back to a run, he’d be taking the spot of a Pit Bull that would then lose his life for no good reason.  I just couldn’t let it happen.  I jumped up and explained the situation to Benji’s owner as she was handing over her $10 – the only requirement for surrendering an animal.  I asked her why she was giving him up and she said that her roommate had moved, left him behind, and she wasn’t really a dog person.  I thought that I’d give her the benefit of the doubt and that maybe the responsibility of giving up on this dog didn’t fall on her.  I asked her if she would hold off a minute and let me call Sherry.  She asked “Will it take long?  I need to get going”.  Uh, really?  I spoke through my tongue that I was physically biting and told her that “No, it shouldn’t”.

My call with Sherry went well.  I knew I could count on her.  She said that I could bring Benji to her and she would get the call put in to the Wheaten Rescue.  I was very relieved.  I told this woman the good news and asked her for some info about him as I walked her to her car.  And surprise, surprise, who’s waiting in the car in the parking lot but the roommate that had supposedly moved and left him behind!  I know this because she readily admitted that she was the dog’s owner as we spoke.  Our brief conversation made it clear that he simply wasn’t wanted anymore.  I just couldn’t wrap my brain around it, as he was really seeming like a great dog.  They could not come up with any issues, such as they couldn’t afford him, no really rough situation that they were dealing with such as illness – nothing.  I had to just turn around and walk away.  I had to be OK with the fact that I must have been there then for a reason.

My daughter, Emily, was with me and she put Benji in the backseat with her.  He was perfect with her and on the car ride.  When we got to Sherry’s, Benji met Sherry’s Wheaten, Yogi.  Benji was quiet but polite.  Benji spent a wonderful few days with Sherry.  In that time she got him groomed and took him to the vet.  He was looking spiffy and feeling good.  He started meeting the neighbors, both human and canine.  He played with Taylor the Standard Poodle and Rudy the Cockapoo, both dogs in Bryn Mawr that we care for regularly.  He also met a neighbor around the corner in Gladwyne, who had lost their old Wheaten, Percy, a couple years prior.  And it was love at first sight.

Ginny, her husband, and their college aged son adopted Benji.  That day, Benji became Rafa, after the tennis player Rafael Nadal.  I was shocked and overjoyed.  I couldn’t believe how well this had turned out.  Not only didn’t he have to go to the rescue, but he was staying in the area.  I was so appreciative of all Sherry did for him.  When I thought it couldn’t get any better, it did.  Ginny hired Creature Comforts for daily dog walking.  We have the pleasure of seeing him 4 days a week and John just had the fun job of house sitting for a week with him over Christmas.  Rafa has a wonderful life consisting of an extremely loving, devoted family, a home in Gladwyne, and a home in Vermont!  Not bad for a dog dumped off at the pound in Philly.

This truly was my personal Feel Good Story of 2011.  Animal rescuers suffer A LOT of heartbreak.  We need things like this to happen so we can keep doing what we do and we soak it up and relish it when it does.  Unfortunately, many dogs given up by their owners are not as lucky as Rafa.  I wish everyone could understand that dogs and cats are not disposable pieces of property, but a commitment for their lifetime.  Creature Comforts is always here to help those who are dedicated to their pets by giving them the best possible care when their parents can’t personally be there.

Rafa - a very happy & grateful boy. Photo by KT Hepner

Well, it seems I should have taken all this advice a very long time ago, as my couches are destroyed.    What’s prompting this topic is that I bought the “As Seen on TV” EmeryCat scratching board yesterday.   So far, I don’t think there’s been any scratching on the board.  There has, however, been sitting and standing on it, the feather toy that comes with it has been murdered, and my cats have been fighting over the catnip that came with it that I sprinkled on top of the board.  It remains to be seen whether my kitties ever clue in or this turns out to be a waste of $15.00.

Why do cats scratch?

As you probably already know, scratching is a completely normal behavior for all felines, and one you can not stop.  One reason cats scratch is to mark their territory.  Aside from leaving visible claw marks, cats’ paws contain scent glands that leave their mark on their territory.  In addition, scratching is good exercise and works out the muscles of the cat’s front quarters.  Lastly, it feels good!

Things you can do

The best thing you can do is to buy your cat a scratching post.  Keep in mind that cats like rough surfaces that they can shred to pieces.  Posts made of real tree limbs or sisal fibers will work best.  It must be something secure that will not fall over and it must be tall enough for your cat to fully extend her body.  Put it in an area of your home that you spend a great deal of time.  You may also want to have more than one.  To encourage your kitty to use the scratching post, spend time with her at it playing with toys, giving her treats, feeding her, etc.  Use any methods to make it a pleasurable place to be.

Discouraging the old scratching areas

If your kitty is still scratching the furniture or any other off -limits items, there are a couple things you can try.  Cats have an aversion to citrus odors so you could spray the areas with a lemon or lemon/orange spray.  You could also spray your cat with a water bottle or blow a whistle at her – both of those things need to be done while your cat is scratching to distract and create an aversion.  Another good deterrent is to cover the area with aluminum foil or double-sided tape.  Neither of those things feels good to scratch on.

Alternate Solutions

Trimming your Cats’ Nails

You can limit the amount of destruction your cat can do by cutting her nails.

You may defray some of your cat’s potential for destruction by carefully trimming the razor-sharp tips of her claws.  You may want to have somebody help you, one to hold and one to trim her nails.  The chances are good your kitty will not be super cooperative.  You may actually want to have some prep time a week or so leading up to the first nail clipping to get her accustomed to having her paws handled.   While petting and soothing her, start massaging her paws, especially on the under side.  Gently press on the individual pads at the base of her claws.  You may want to give her treats to reward her for not protesting.  The point, of course, is to make the process a positive one so that she will eventually feel comfortable enough to let you handle her paws without protest.

Gently hold your kitty’s paw in one hand, and with your thumb on top of the paw and forefinger on the pad, gently squeeze your thumb and finger together.  This will push the claw clear of the fur so it can easily be seen.  You will notice that the inside of the claw is pink near its base.  This is living tissue that you do not want to cut.  Trim only the clear tip of the nail.  Do not clip the area where pink tissue is visible nor the slightly opaque region that outlines the pink tissue.  This will avoid cutting into areas that would be painful or bleed.  The desired effect is to blunt the tip.  Many different types of nail trimmers are available in pet supply stores.  I use the one specifically for cats.  Don’t attempt to trim all her nails at once.  Trim one or two at a time, reward her with affection or food, then let her be for a bit.  Eventually trimming will become a non-traumatic experience.

Soft Paws

If all of this is too time consuming and you have a strictly indoor cat, you have another option – a product called Soft Paws. These are lightweight vinyl caps that you apply over your cat’s own claws.  They have rounded edges, so your cat’s cratching doesn’t damage your home and furnishings.  I have personally never used this on my cats nor have I taken care of any cats that have them.  So I can’t personally attest to their effectiveness.  The following is how they are advertised.

Soft Paws are great for households with small children, as they guard against the child getting scratched.  They should be used only on indoor cats, since they blunt one of the cat’s primary means of self-defense.  Soft Paws last approximately six weeks.  At first they may feel a bit strange to her and she may groom them excessively, causing them to come off sooner.  She’ll get used to them quickly though, and thereafter they will last longer.  It is amazing how well cats tolerate the Soft Paws.  Most don’t even seem to notice they are wearing them.

Soft Paws come in a kit and are easy to apply.  Just glue them on.  They are generally applied to the front paws only, since these are what cause most of the destruction to your home.  A kit will last approximately three to six months, depending on your cat.  After applying the Soft Paws, check your cat’s claws weekly.  You may find one or two caps missing from time to time, and these are easily replaced using the adhesive included in the kit.

DO NOT DECLAW!!!

Declawing is not an acceptable option for the beautiful, loving animal that depends on you.  The reasons to avoid declawing are compelling, for you as well as for your cat.

Declawing is literally maiming a cat, a mistake that can lead to physical, emotional, and behavioral complications.  It is erroneous to think that declawing a cat is a trivial procedure similar to trimming fingernails.  A cat’s claws are a vital part of its anatomy, essential to balance, mobility, and survival.

Declawing is an irreversible surgical procedure that involves amputating the last joint of the cat’s “toes”.  It is a very painful procedure with strong potential to secondary complications.  (Imagine having the last joint of your own fingers amputated.  Not a pleasant idea).  Unfortunately, as a veterinary assistant, I have witnessed many, many declaws.  They never got easier to watch.  I got sick to my stomach during every single one.

On rare occasions declawing may lead to secondary contracture of the tendons.  This makes it uncomfortable for the cat to walk.  Since the last joints of their front paws are missing, they compensate by placing more of their weight to the hind quarters, causing them to be out of balance.  This shift of weight to the hind quarters may lead to atrophy of the muscles of their front quarters.  Being out of balance is extremely distressing to a cat, whose very life is about balance.

Deprived of its front claws, a cat may become insecure and distressed.  I can assure you that if your cat becomes emotionally distressed, you will too.  Signs of distress tend to take such forms as urinating on your favorite rug or spraying your antique armoire.  Feeling defenseless without her claws, your cat may become hostile to people (including you), and to other cats and become more apt to bite.  The worst bites I ever received were from a declawed cat.  She was very angry about being confined to the basement and attacked me repeatedly, biting into my knee and my arm.  I’m convinced her bites were so awful because she knew she wasn’t able to use her claws.

Some cats develop an aversion to their litter box because of the pain associated with scratching in the litter after a declawing procedure.  If your cat doesn’t go in the box, she will find a more comfortable place to do her business.  Often times, these habits are hard to break.

Hope these tips help!  Feel free to ask if you have any questions that weren’t answered here.

My babies

Boomer standing on the EmeryCat

Today was doomed.  Here’s what I knew going into today:  Robyn was going on Day 3 of a horrible stomach virus and most likely would not be able to work.  Jessica was stranded at a client’s house!  She was house sitting for a client when,  during the storm last night, a tree came down pulling down the electric wires across the driveway.  While out on the property with the dogs, Jess heard an explosion and saw lights flash and shoot up the driveway and then the house was plunged into darkness.  This is a huge house on a hill with the only way on or off the property being this driveway with a bridge going over a creek.  Sounds a little scary, no?  I did get a few more texts than normal last night as Jess sat in the dark.   As of today, PECO had not gotten to the wires so it seemed Jess was not going anywhere.  I was now left with 11 midday visits to work out between mine, Robyn’s and Jessica’s!  Jon was able to add 2 of them to his schedule.  Trooper that she is, Robyn made it out at 1PM to get 2 of them done.  After I’d done 4 visits, I went to where Jess was staying and implored the PECO workers to get Jess out of the driveway.  They got her right out and she completed the next 3 visits.  I’m happy to say that we worked this out without bumping anyone off the schedule and got to everybody within their required time frames.  I am so thankful for the dedication of my staff and the fact that they feel the same way I do – we have a responsibility to these animals and just have to find a way to deal with obstacles.  Please know that not all pet sitting services operate this way.  I received a call this morning from a client who uses us as back-up to another pet sitting service.  Her sitter had called that morning saying she wouldn’t be doing her visits due to water in her basement.  I asked her what happened to the sitters this woman has working for her.  She said she had no idea and was quite frustrated.  Unfortunately, I had to tell her that I wouldn’t be able to help as I had my hands full with the ones who were already scheduled.

Despite a bit of stress and craziness, I had a great time on my walks today with Gumby, French Fry, Abby, Tango, and Ellie.  I remain so thankful every day for a wonderful business, great clients, and just the best dogs and cats ever.

That’s me screaming in anger and frustration!                         

The day after my Puppy Mill blog, I went into Petco for dog food.  A perfectly nice woman struck up a conversation as we shopped for dog food and I shared kisses and snuggles with her sweet dog.  He was clearly a mixed breed and I asked her what his breeding was.  He was a Schipperke/Lab Mix.  I asked her if he was a rescue.  She answered that she had gotten him at World Wide Aquarium and Pets in Upper Darby.  As my heart sank, she told me they were giving puppies away one day.  Riiight…  I asked “Were they giving them away or you bought him?”  She must have then realized by the tone in my voice that I wasn’t buying it.  She said, “Well, they were selling them.  But I asked the man who worked there what happens to the puppies if they don’t sell them and he said that they’d give them back to the puppy mill and the puppy miller will kill them.”  ARE YOU KIDDING ME???  So not only is the reality of the puppy mills horrific enough, we have pet shop employees preying on people’s emotions and making them feel like they’re rescuing the puppy if they buy it andpossibly sentencing it to death if they don’t.  He didn’t even pretend that this litter came from a reputable breeder, as most pet stores will do.  This woman did not even get a purebred dog – not that that would have made it any better.  But she paid Who knows how much for a mutt – and not even a “designer breed” mutt!  My response to her was “So, in essence you supported the puppy mill”.  Then I forced myself to shut my mouth.  What’s done is done in that instance.  She went on to say that she’d never do that again and her pets from then on would be rescues.   That’s great but there are too many people like her caught vulnerable and realizing what they’ve done after they’ve done it and creating a space at the pet store for the next puppy mill dog to move on in.   There has to be an awareness and understanding created that the only way to put these puppy mills out of business is to stop buying the dogs.  If you are a dog lover and you agree, please open the eyes of anyone and everyone you can – hopefully before they’ve already purchased the puppy at a pet store or from a newspaper ad or over the internet. 

I promise that all my blogs won’t be heavy like this!  But if I can do some good at the same time that I’m giving pet care tips and sharing stories, I might feel a little bit better.  Thanks so much for reading.

Puppy mills are cramped, crude and filthy places where unhealthy, sickly, sometimes genetically deficient dogs are bred solely for profit. Dogs are bred from the first time they come into heat until they die. Females are bred every cycle and often to multiple males in one cycle. The miller kills dogs that are unable to produce, as they are now no longer of any use. The lucky ones are shot, others are starved to death. Thousands of puppies are born in mills, usually without shelter from the sun, snow, wind and other elements. Cages are stacked on top of each other–with nothing in between–allowing urine and feces to fall through onto whatever lays below–usually other dogs.  Puppies and adults with acid burns and skin lesions from wallowing in their own excrement are not uncommon.  Puppies are taken from their mothers at only a few weeks old, often 4 or less, and sold to brokers.  The brokers then pack the puppies into crates so they can be resold to pet stores all over the country.  Puppies are shipped by truck or plane, often without adequate food, water, ventilation or shelter. This treatment regularly results in the death of almost half of the animals on board.

Buyer Beware

It is important to be aware that puppy mill puppies are often sold through the internet, newspaper ads, brokers and dealers. Puppy mills also sell puppies directly to the public too, often putting forth the appearance of a reputable breeder.

Did you know that most pet stores purchase their puppies from puppy mills? Their motive is purely monetary — higher profits. These stores want “product” in volume for the lowest price possible and that’s what puppy mills are in business to provide. Pet stores also bank on the relationship between families and their new puppies being so strong that puppies who begin to exhibit health or behavioral problems will not be returned. Wanting to “rescue” a puppy from its cage at the pet store only reinforces the cycle of supply and demand that keeps puppy mills profitable.

Reputable breeder or Puppy Mill?

Reputable breeders have a deep interest in where their puppies go and will interview hopeful buyers before a sale is completed. Reputable breeders will not sell their dogs in any way that does not permit them to have interaction with potential buyers. Their desire is to ensure that the puppies are a good match for families and that every puppy will go to a responsible, loving, forever home.

In contrast, puppy mills are commercial enterprises which breed dogs in significant numbers for profit. While puppy mills are not inherently illegal, their operators consider their dogs only as a commodity, as income-producing machines. Maximization of profit is the primary goal. This allows for no screening of genetic problems, and veterinary care is minimal or nonexistent. Provisions for the comfort and well being of the dogs are regarded as expenses kept to an absolute minimum. Dogs not on display for potential buyers are kept in cramped wire cages twenty-four hours a day, often unprotected from the elements.

Finding a Reputable Breeder 

Ways to locate reputable breeders include:

• asking your veterinarian or professional dog trainer for a referral
• contacting local breed clubs
• attending dog shows

Remember that reputable breeders:

• specialize in only one or two breeds of dogs and are knowledgeable about breed standards and potential breed-specific genetic problems
• often keep the dogs in the home as part of the family and will welcome you to see where the dogs spend most of their time
• encourage you to spend time with the puppy’s parents (at a minimum, the mother) and encourage multiple visits prior to taking the puppy home
• want your entire family to meet the puppy and discuss care and “rules” for the household
• have a strong relationship with a veterinarian and will provide documentation of the puppy’s vet visits and medical history
• provide a written contract and health guarantee, and ask you to sign a contract stating that you will return the dog to the breeder should you be unable to keep the dog at any point during its lifetime
• understand healthy breeding patterns for the females, so puppies are not always available
• maintain a list of people interested in the next available litter

My Cockapoo, Jackson, is a puppy mill rescue.  He was born in a puppy mill.  What sometimes happens is the millers have trouble finding buyers for the litters of puppies.  It used to be that these puppies would be disposed of if not purchased at a very young age.  Now some have established relationships with rescues and allow them to take these pups.  My sweet, precious Jackson is one of those.  However, my heart breaks not knowing where his parents are and what their lives may be like.  That is the most awful part of this horrific industry – the mothers.  I wish that everyone that purchased a puppy from a pet store or ad in the paper or online could imagine what the life of that puppy’s mother most likely is, and to understand that buying puppies is perpetuating that life for these dogs.

A good way to avoid the possibility of buying a puppy mill dog is to adopt from a rescue or shelter.  Many of the dogs are purebred if that is important to you and there are breed specific rescues as well.    The others are mixes that could be perfectly healthy, loving, and even better, will be eternally grateful to you giving them the loving home they so desperately need.

Absolutely.

So many people still underestimate the importance of their pet’s dental health.  The American Veterinary Dental Society recently estimated 80% of dogs and 70% of cats show signs of oral and dental disease by age 3.  Regular dental care by way of brushing, routine dental exams and cleanings, and a diet that promotes dental health will result in improved health and overall longevity of a pet by preventing or aiding in early detection of dental disease.  Just as your dental health is important, your pet’s is equally so.

Dogs’ and cats’ mouths are similar to humans in that their teeth are susceptible to plaque and tartar build-up and bacterial infections.  Without regular brushing and dental care from the veterinarian, food, bacteria,and debris can accumulate and harden on the tooth’s surface and at the gum line, forming plaque.  As bacteria grow inside the plaque and as calcium salts are deposited, plaque turns into tartar.  If left unattended, this plaque and tartar build-up can result in gingivitis.  Periodontal disease can lead to infection and tooth loss.  *Worse, severe infection can affect other parts of the body such as the heart, liver, and kidneys.

Brushing

Now, I have to admit, I have never brushed my dogs’ or cats’ teeth.  But it is highly recommended.  Some vets advise you to brush daily, while some may suggest once or twice a week.  To do this, you need a toothbrush and toothpaste specifically for pets.  The toothbrushes will be smaller, softer, and have a different shape than those for people.  It’s important to not use human toothpaste, as it contains ingredients that can make your pet sick if swallowed.  Pet toothpaste also contains an enzymatic cleaner and is flavored with chicken, liver, or another flavoring to increase palatibility.  When you start, sit with your pet quietly and use as little restraint as possible.  First, get your pet used to the feel of something being put in their mouth.  You can also first let them taste a bit of the toothpaste.  When you begin, talk to your pet in a soft voice and praise them as you go.  Brush in a 45 degree angle from the gum line.  Brush the outside of the larger teeth in the front of the mouth first, gradually increasing the amount of teeth brushed.  Small dogs should also have the inside of the teeth cleaned.  Cats and large dogs manage to keep them clean with their tongue.  If you have too much trouble with the toothbrush, there are also finger swabs, tooth cloths, and mouth rinses.  Be sure that you are gentle as too much pressure and rubbing around the gums can irritate them.  When you finish, you should reward your pet with a treat, walk, or playtime.

Diet

You can contribute to your pets’ dental hygiene by serving dry food and biscuits (in moderation as they’re usually high in calories), which can help prevent gum disease, as opposed to table scraps and wet food.  Feeding a raw diet would also do the same things as munching on those bones will help scrape the teeth clean.  There are many dental treats on the market now to help reduce plaque and tartar.  Be careful of chewy treats as they stick to the teeth and typically contain a lot of sugar.  Carrots are a good, healthy choice.

Treats/Bones

Some soft, non-abrasive toys can provide benefits by rubbing plaque off the teeth.  Do not give your dog hard bones to chew!  I learned this the hard way.  Josey, my Pit Bull, certainly enjoys giving those jaws a workout.   Little did I know her sterilized bone had fractured her tooth.  Dr. Sutor found it during her dental exam.  It’s called a slab fracture – a piece broken off vertically on the side of the tooth from Josey biting down on the bone.  Unfortunately it requires extraction as the tooth eventually dies.  My poor girl had to be put under anesthesia, then the tooth had to be drilled in half and taken out in two pieces as it was a molar and the root was still intact.  I felt awful that I’d essentially caused her the problem by giving her the bone!

Dental Exams and Teeth Cleanings

Your pet should receive a dental exam at the time of their routine annual visit.  If your vet advises you that it is time for your pet to receive a teeth cleaning, please take him/her seriously and don’t put it off.  Tartar accumulation reaches a certain point where only the dental instruments will remove it.  Your vet may prescribe antibiotics to prevent any bacterial spread during the dental work.  At the time of the cleaning, your pet will be put under anesthesia.  This is the only way to perform a thorough teeth cleaning on your pet.  Running bloodwork before the procedure may be indicated to confirm your pet can handle the anesthesia.  The vet will scale the teeth, examine the gums, remove any diseased teeth, and polish the teeth. 

Signs of Dental Disease in your Dog or Cat

Bad Breath!  Although dental disease is not the only cause of halitosis, it is the most common.  So if your pet has persistent stinky breath, an exam is indicated.  The cause can be the result of a bacterial infection of the gums seen with periodontal disease.  It’s important to know that “doggy breath” is not normal.

Signs of pain including “chattering” teeth while eating or grooming – especially with cats, drooling with possibly foul smelling saliva, crying out, and refusing to eat or reduced appetite.  However, I can tell you that Josey never exhibited any signs of pain due to her fractured tooth.  So the exam was super important.

Listlessness or lethargy

If your pet will allow it, you can also do your own visual exams.  Signs upon exam would be plaque and tartar on the teeth, missing teeth, broken/fractured teeth, and inflamed gums.

Swelling or draining wound below the eye due to a tooth abcess.

If you’ve been less than vigilant about your pet’s dental care, please don’t fret.  It’s not too late to start.   Last year, due to my urging, my dad brought his 8 year old pug to the vet for his first dental.  His breath was atrocious!  He wouldn’t let anyone near his mouth but the breath was enough to make me positive he needed some major dental work.  He wound up needing 3 teeth extracted.  But after that, he was good as new, with nice fresh breath to boot!  I am sure that was a big step in helping to keep him healthy and happy longer.

How many of you brush your dog’s teeth?  Any dental care stories you can share?

This cutie-patootie is what looks like a Poodle-Bichon mix.  It’s a guess as my client rescued him years ago after he’d been found wandering the streets.  He is just the sweetest thing and a wonderful companion for my elderly client whose husband passed away several years ago.  They live together in a beautiful assisted living complex in Bryn Mawr.  He’s got a great life and it’s so evident how much they love each other.  My client called because she’d fallen and broken her leg and needed help with getting Lazarus walked.  I hate receiving these types of calls, but we were happy to jump on board right away with daily morning, afternoon, and evening walks.  Laz, as we call him, is loving his walks around the complex with Nikki.  He is such a happy boy and has an awesome energy about him.  We are grateful to have the time with him and believe this will turn into a long relationship.

Well, the short answer is – Nope.

A very common mistake people make is to project human emotions onto their dogs.  The other is to transfer your guilty, nervous energy to your dog before you leave.

As long as someone is meeting your pets’ basic needs with giving food, water, and exercise as well as showering them with love and affection, they will be fine.  Most often, they have forgotten about you soon after you’ve left – sorry to say.

Here are a couple things you can try before leaving to make yourself, and perhaps your pet, feel better.

Put an item of your “dirty” laundry that has your scent all over it wherever your dog likes to sleep.  That will be a familiar scent and perhaps a comfort.  Obviously, do not do this if your dog is prone to chewing up your things!

Take your luggage out at times that you are not actually going anywhere so your dog does not automatically associate it with you leaving.  Often, when we take out our luggage and observe that our dog is reacting, we then feel anxious, which the dog then immediately picks up on.

Make arrangements for your pet while you’re gone that allow them to follow as closely as possible to their normal routine.  I do feel that a pet sitter or house sitter is best, as your pet is able to stay home with all that is familiar.

We, as pet sitters, are already looked at as buddies and playmates by your dogs.  But if you’d like to make us even more appealing, buy a new toy that only we get to use with your dog.  You might also suggest a new route for us to walk that you don’t normally take.  If your dog has a new challenge or place to explore, there will be no worries.  I don’t recommend leaving out any treats, chewies or bones that your dog is not accustomed to eating as it may cause stomach upset.

Dogs react to our emotions

Dogs naturally feed off the energy we give off.  If you get all worked up and excited when you come home, your dog matches your energy and bounces around happily, no?  The same applies if you’re sad and anxious when leaving.  I have always tried to remain very calm when both leaving and coming home to my dogs.  I say a quiet, calm goodbye whether I’m leaving for a few hours or a week.  When I get home, I try to downplay my emotions as well.  I’m never successful when I’ve been away for a week or more, though.  I’m just too excited to see them!

A Dog’s Concept of Time

Your dog has no idea how long you’ve been gone. 

Dogs live in the moment.  They don’t think about the past, they don’t ponder the future, and they don’t have a sense of how much time is passing. 

Again, while you’re away, all your dog is concerned with is being fed when he’s accustomed to and engaging in the play and exercising he’s used to.  Be sure to set up an adequate schedule with your pet sitter that enables your dog to get plenty of time outdoors and exercise so that they’re content during their time alone.

I’ve had many people over the years tell me they’d be willing to have a pet sitter come for 1-2 nights, but for more than that, they’ll board the dog at a kennel because they feel it’s just too much time for the dog to be home alone.  I feel quite the opposite and would love to dispel this misconception.  The longer you’re away, the more important it is for your dog to be in familiar, safe surroundings.  The longer the dog is in a kennel, the more opportunity there is to be exposed to illness, contract parasites or skin/eye/ear infections, get a stomach upset from food changes, or become sick in any number of ways due to the stress of a kennel environment.  For even the most easy-going dog in the best of kennels, there is the chance of any of those things.

My dog seems mad at me when I get home from my trip.

A dog is not capable of holding a grudge.  If your dog is acting quieter or different, the more likely reason is that he’s

Carpenter

 tired from all the fun he’s had!  I’ve had many clients tell me that their dogs get more exercise when they’re away and have us coming several times a day than when they’re home.

It’s important to understand that dogs don’t miss you in the human sense of the term.  It is more about the absence of a member of their pack.  But, because they live in the moment, they will adjust.  It will be quicker for some dogs than others.  They will be happy when everyone returns home as now the pack is back together.

I have taken care of many hundreds of dogs, as well as cats, that display no signs of missing their owners while they are away.  They may initially seem a bit anxious, but typically adjust to the new routine quite quickly.  They seem fine when we come in for their visits, and they are fine when we leave them.  Of course they will always be happy to see you when you return!

You can rely on Creature Comforts to provide all the love, attention, exercise, and care needed so that you can go away with peace of mind knowing your pet is happy and content in your absence.  For dogs, I recommend at least 3 visits a day, 4 for those needing more exercise or used to a midday outing.  You can schedule a park trip each day to get the dog more fun and exercise.  If your dog has a little separation anxiety or any medical issues, you may want to see if we have a house sitter available to stay in your home.  For cats, I require at least one visit daily.

Here is a list of pre-trip preparations to help us do the best job possible:

• Leave us enough pet food, cat litter, paper towels, medication, etc. to last the duration of your trip as well as a bit additional in case you are delayed.  Fees will be charged if we have to shop for supplies.
• Leave us your contact numbers. 
• Be sure we have current info; i.e., phone numbers, vet info, alarm info, etc.
• If you have an alarm system, please notify the company that a pet sitter will be coming to your home.  Be sure we have a password in case the alarm goes off.
• Please let us know of anyone who has your permission to enter your home while you are away – neighbors, friends, family, workmen, etc.
• Inform neighbors who may be looking out for your property that a pet sitter will be making visits to your home.
• Set thermostats or AC at temperatures that will be comfortable for your pets.  Be sure we have instructions for adjustments.
• Clean the litter boxes and fill with fresh litter just before leaving.
• Count heads just before leaving.  There have been numerous times we have found cats closed in rooms.
• Please be sure all pet “stuff” will be in its usual spot – leash, towels, baggies, toys, food, treats, litter, etc.
• Let us know if there have been any changes in your pet’s routine, behavior, medical history since the last time we were there.
• **Please call the office to let us know you have returned safely.  This call may be made any time of day. 
• Lastly, enjoy your trip and relax knowing Creature Comforts will be providing exceptional care for your pets!